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Baden, near Vienna

If you compare a beautifully restored historical building with a bonbon, then Baden, 25 km south of Vienna, is a cart load of these delicacies. Already in 1795 the poet Moritz Gottlieb Saplier was lyrical about the town at the edge of the Wienerwald: ‘A town as if it has been spun out of air, a mini-Vienna in watercolour.’ A health resort full of white benches with cast iron legs. The second largest casino of Europe. Sentimental top-level operetta’s in the summer arena and in the state theatre. A warm waterbath in art deco with the largest beach in Austria – the Römerthermen. Eight golf courts. A perfect whole for feeling great.

Baden is a perfect idyll in Biedermeier style. But behind the decor hides an ultramodern infrastructure and that combination has made Baden one of the richest communities in Austria. In 1934 the casino was opened – a huge dome, lit at night as a fairytale castle.Meanwhile it has been expanded and rebuilt into an event center (Kaiser-Franz-Ring 1, A-25—Baden, ✆ 022 52-444-96, www.casinos.at, daily from 3pm, only at the jackpots you don’t have to pay attention to the casino dress code). Since Baden has a micro climate, palm trees are placed in front of the building.

From the Pannonic region the heat rises up and the flanks of the Wienerwald protect against the icy winds from the Alps. This way even red wine can be made from the grapes. Beethoven, who has lived here for almost three years, was delighted about the wine. Though not all inhabitants of Baden were very delighted about Beethoven.

In 1820, the composer was already ahead of the fitness hype. Dressed in rags and gasping for air he ran through the Wienerwald, wrote notes on stones and sang clamorously until the police arrested him and his patrons had to bail him out. He was forced move several times in Baden, because he was playing the piano too loudly. He flirted with women, but none of them ever stayed with him. Furthermore he was a bad payer. People laughed a lot with the funny chap in Baden. But Beethoven finished his Ninth Symphony here – since 1992 ‘Alle Menschen werden Brüder’ is the European anthem. This was performed at the health resort so beautifully, that Baden forgave him for everything he did and even built a Beethoven temple at the park. It lies a bit higher and offers a beautiful view. 

Mozart has been here as well. His wife Constanze even more often, and there was constant gossip around her male resort companions. But she came for the sulphur springs. Those are 36°C and they flow from the dolomite rocks by their own pressure. This temperature is perfect for the human body.The Roman well, which originates from the Roman period, daily pumps around seven million liters of healthy water into the waterworks of the baths and the hotels (Brusattiplatz 4, A-2500 Baden, ✆ 022 52-450 30, www.roemertherme.at, steam rooms daily 10am-10pm, Wellness-Center 9am-9.30pm). It is very good for the joints, against arthritis and it improves the cholesterol levels. But it smells like rotten eggs!

The most popular hotel is the Herzoghof, close to the welness center and the casino (Kaiser-Franz-Ring 10, ✆022 52- 87 29 70, fax 20 66 46, reservierung.herzoghof@aon.at, cheaper in the low season). The hotel is placed under monumental care and its location was once the court of the Babenbergs. Here you stay close to the origin of the town. The restaurant also serves a good Austrian kitchen.

 

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